プリペラ のバックアップ(No.6)


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組織 平織

品質 ウール綿

プリペラとは太いと細い交織によって立体感を表わした織物である。英語表記ではpripela。 もともとは織物であるが、杵蚕絹(さくさんぎぬ)の細綿の特紡糸など、最近では綿の太と細を使ったものなどがある。
たて、よこともに太いと細いを混用するという使い方をして表面に凹凸を表わす。太いをさらに立体的に見せるために太い方のに節糸(スラブヤーン)を使ったり、梨地織にしたり、またはドビーで特に太を表面に浮き出るような織り方にしたりする場合もある。
一般的には細いで織目をごく粗く平織にし、これに節のある太いを5-7mm間隔に格子状に織ったものが多い。織物では細い方に30番手、太い方に10-15番手(またはそれのスラブヤーン)、綿織物では24-40番手が細い方、太い方は12番手、またはそれらを引き揃えてさらに太くする、という使い方がある。
またプリペラ染色加工時に布に凹凸をつくる、という方法もある。熱収縮の大きいを裏側に長く浮かせるような組織にし、これを熱加工で縮ませて凹凸をつくるとか、強撚糸を使って縮ませるとかの方法で、太による凹凸をさらに大きく表現するようなものもある。用途は婦人用のジャケットスカートパンツなどであるが、のものはツイード感覚の高級婦人服に使われる。

プリペラ.jpg

関連項目

織布
織物
ウール

平織

綿

交織
スラブヤーン
梨地織
ドビー
強撚糸
ジャケット
スカート
パンツ
ツイード

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出典: ファッション用語辞典『apparel-fashion wiki(アパレルファッション・ウィキ)』

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